Style Crush: Rooney Mara

Burgeoning acting career acclamation aside, thanks to her role in the much-hyped English big screen adaptation of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, Rooney Mara's seemingly effortless style is swiftly conquering the hearts of many, including my own. A reincarnated Snow White, her sleek ebony crop (a product of her role as pierced, tattooed, computer hacking introvert Lisbeth Salander) contrasts strikingly against her alabaster complexion.

Mara's minimalist choice of attire works so well with her unique, more innocent Dita von Teese looks. She disregards accessories. She knows what colours work for her (a winter palette of bold blues, blacks, whites and jewel tones) and an oh so subtle, blink-and-you'll-miss-it nod to the silent screen era infiltrates into her much coveted wardrobe. At every event, she ticks all the right boxes, although some would argue this is merely down to her playing it too near the "safe" margin. Ostensibly, it would appear Givenchy is Mara's go-to designer when it comes to red carpet events.

Givenchy coat, Brian Atwood shoes.

Givenchy dress.

Calvin Klein dress and sandals.

Miu Miu dress.

Miu Miu bralette and skirt.

Givenchy dress.

Louis Vuitton.

Michael Kors dress.

Louis Vuitton dress.

Louis Vuitton dress.

Carven Alpaca coat.

Nina Ricci dress.

J.Mendel dress, Prada shoes.

Valentino dress.

Prabal Gurung dress.

Lanvin dress.

Lana Del Rey - Fashion's New Sweetheart

As the hoo-hah of the consecutive Fashion Weeks prevail, my religious and consistent following of it have resulted in my more "general" posts taking a backseat. This is half of the excuse for my delay in manifesting this particular post. The other half is down to the fact that the subject matter is something of a, well, controversial nature. It is a more recent debate, which has divided opinions right down the middle - the Marmite effect. And no, I'm not distributing my views on whether or not the wearing of fur should be deemed acceptable or if Marc Jacobs took things too far by permitting 14 year old models to walk in his f/w '12 show last week. No. The hot topic I am addressing in this post is the enigmatic Lizzy Grant, alias Lana Del Rey.

Over the years there have been many celebrity folk who have been filed under the "Marmite" section of the filing cabinet in the office that is pop culture. Some self-confessed, a la Lily Allen, and others, like Lana, are automatically chucked in due to the whirlwind of mixed opinions that seems to arise out of nowhere regarding them.

Lana propelled to stardom after the video for her song Video Games (a home-made video montage of herself and other miscellaneous clips soundtracked by the wounded love song) went viral on YouTube. The song continued to provide the musical accompaniment for Christopher Kane's s/s '12 show at London Fashion Week last September and now, she adorns the cover of the March 2012 issue of British Vogue. Alexandra Shulman, Vogue editor, says of Lana's acquisition of such a, to many, prestigious honour of gracing the cover: "She is probably one of the newest stars in her field that the magazine has ever had on the cover".

So why the controversy?

Like a bully in a school yard, there are bands of keyboard warriors skulking around their natural habitat (the internet) in search of new victims (in this case, Del Rey) to latch onto and devote the best of their time to trying to drag said victim down - be it to boost their, possibly critically low, self esteems or simply for their own sadistic amusement. On my own Twitter timeline, I've witnessed crude variations of the singer's name being tossed about in a carefree manner but for no reason whatsoever other than the people in question don't like her. They don't even bother specifying as to why that is. Some claim they don't like her music or the intense hype revolving around her. Fair enough, but is childish and, frankly, ridiculously nasty name-calling necessary? I don't particularly like Bucks Fizz but I wouldn't spiral off into a fury of malicious insults - partially because nobody would know who on earth I was talking about.

There is no doubt Lana is a beautiful woman - a reincarnation of the sultry, seductive pin-ups of the mid-century era who blew flirty, playful kisses from their photo on the page of a young army soldier's Playboy magazine, stuffed at the bottom of his mattress to avoid confiscation from the General. Her barrel waves of fox tail-auburn hair that tumble loosely down her back, the sparkling sapphires behind the extravagant lashes and those lips (the lips - the Jolie-esque smackers that fuel the ongoing quest of the internet trolls to prove they are pseudo) all contribute to create this captivating, sad-eyed siren, crooning tales of heartbreak in that hauntingly endearing manner of hers.

From the point of view of style, Lana's Vogue shoot accentuates her pin-up image. A lemonade yellow sleeveless blouse and complementing collar from Louis Vuitton's impossibly girly, pretty and appropriate s/s '12 collection serve as the cover shot's ensemble. Lana's subtle, yet flashy, diamante jewellery are all her own, as are the elaborate, red-tipped talons at the ends of her fingers. 

The remainder of the shoot is very feminine and I found it to be very Valentinesy which may have been the approach as this was all in the run up to V-Day (I also included this shoot in my Valentine's Day 2012 Inspiration post) - the pinks and reds that made up the basis of the shoot's colour scheme, the use of luxe textiles, clothing and decor, of satin, silk, fur and glitter, right down to the handwritten signature on the double page spread in her flirty, curvy print: "Lots of love, Lana Del Rey xxx". 

The garments in question are, primarily, from the s/s '12 collections of Prada, Viktor & Rolf and Meadham Kirchhoff - overly girly, emphasising Lana's femininity and coquettish charm. Not forgetting, of course, the trademark wreath of flowers that crown her head.

Lana describes her look as a fusion of "Lolita got lost in the hood" and my personal favourite, "I live in Monaco but don't fuck with me". She insists that this image in which the world perceives her is how she naturally is - however, she doesn't see it as tangible, that she doesn't dress to fit a certain image of herself. Her ethos on clothing is that "If I'm going on television, I guess I should wear something nice, but that's as far as it goes". Interviewer and fashion editor of The Guardian, Jess Cartner-Morley observes Lana's inability to think of someone who she believes dresses exceptionally and offers Grace Kelly when pressured. She also includes her theories as to Lana's reluctance to reveal too much, and that it could relate to "the internet trolls who have it in for her".

As it would seem, the haters are the driving force for Lana's ascending success. She was chosen to supply the musical entertainment for SNL on the 18th of February (I was aghast at the vindictive tweets that are still surfacing in response to this when I scanned through her name's tagged tweets on Twitter this morning) and as an even bigger middle finger gesture to the Anti-Lana mob, Mulberry has launched a new bag, the Del Rey, in her honour.
"I love the design" Lana mused, "A perfect mix between old school Hollywood and contemporary style. It's such an honour that such a classic and prestigious brand would name a bag after me".

2012 will be the year of Lana Del Rey - whether you like it or not. The world is her oyster-studded knuckleduster.

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Favourites ❤

Not to sound uncannily like an Irish mammy (though I inevitably will), but where does the week go? The preliminary offerings of what can be expected, clothes-wise, in six months time came, were observed in the utmost of awe, and concluded in what seemed like a, cliched blink of an eye - paving the way for London to recommence this Friday.

Already I've noticed (as has anyone who is not immune to repetition) an ample supply of recurring trends cropping up amongst the variety of shows and exhibitions, giving us a hint as to what will be en vogue when the pastels and tropical printed garments of the current season have run their course. Many of these have been recycled from the previous winter seasons, meaning you certainly do not have to dispose of the entirety of your wardrobe's content in favour of clothing so brand-spankin' new that it still gives off a faint waft of the cashier who sold it to you.

On a more serious note, I hope nobody actually does do this.

Fusions of clashing textures (seen at Alexander Wang, DKNY, Derek Lam) will resume where they left off last Fall/Winter. Think leathers and knits, fur (faux, of course) and mock croc skin and hopefully you have grasped the pattern forming here as I fear sounding like a broken record (another classic Irish mammy expression). Earthy military shades, power-colour combos and jewel tones subjugated the week representing the harsher, bolder colour spectrum of winter, alongside hints of party season glitz and glitter. Cranberry and wine hues were the unofficial stars of the runway and will, undoubtedly, be big news, seen everywhere from Diane von Furstenburg to Tommy Hilfiger and back. Other dominant players included oriental floral patterns (Jason Wu, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler) and boyish coats with leather accents, granting my woolen boyfriend Topshop coat (which shall eventually see the light of a What I Wear-esque post) with PU collar and detailing another year of constant wear.

Let the games begin!

Tibi

Tibi's perfect merge of "boy meets girl" had me swooning from the first boxy-silhouetted jacket. Ultimately, the collection embodied those maladroit preteen "tomboy" years where you are immune to eyebrow tweezers and dress as awkwardly as you are around boys but in a slightly more high fashion way. Layering of textures were present; chunky knits over PVC midi skirts, leather over silk and boyish tweeds added edge to a femine blouse. Sloppy ponytails, modest shapes and that darling birdy pattern (yet another sighed swoon from me when I first clasped my eyesight onto the print) help to highlight the girl hidden beneath the blazer she stole from her older brother. 

Ruffian

The inspiration for this particular collection was the English countryside and that comes across quite patently. But we get so much more than that from the multiple aspects of this show and it seems the basis for the collection is, in fact, a minute concept. The sumptuous textures,the pillarbox pouts, the fedoras tipped just so on the coiffed-haired models - not to mention those opulent velvet nails, conjure up a wealthy, independent 1940's woman retiring for the weekend in her lavish manor in the English countryside. The woman's suit is a staple feature in this collection as are bold, strong, powerful colours to match the attitudes and personas of the women who wear them. Plush materials like velvet and tweed give off an "Only the best will do" aura. Modern assest such as leather-detailed jackets add a touch of modernity and originality to the retro vibes.

Victoria Beckham

What I adore about Victoria's collection was it's wearability factor of the clothing. It hosted an abundance of flattering shapes, pencil skirted dresses, skater skirted dresses and black outlines in just the right places to either draw from, or accentuate certain areas. The colours used were a far cry from the softer, frothier, girlier tones of this season with harsh, bold hues from dark forest greens and military neutrals to traffic-stopping bursts of red and cobalt blue. Accessories were minimal (a few belts here and there, and chunky knitted socks perfect for keeping your tootsies warm on a brutal winter's eve) as the addition of a bright red lip said enough. I loved the black collars adjoined to the majority of the dresses and felt they contrasted in a wonderful, almost cartoony, way. 

It also came as a surprise that Victoria, the reigning queen of shoes of towering heights, opted for flats, in the form of boots - a lovely incentive for those of us with a fear of heights.

Derek Lam

From my heavily active Tumblr trackings of NYFW, it became very clear that the above collection was a clear-cut favourite for many. Instagram shots of not the most adequate quality surfaced instantaneously of an array of ladylike fabrics and floral patterns, peppered with tokens of cranberry red leather. Garment lengths ranged from just above the knee to billowing skirts trailing across the floor. Florals were given an oriental twist and the mismatch of layering textures found it's place once again. My favourite look was the thick sweater paired with a floor-sweeping sheer black maxi dress; toned down elegance. Silk items were given a sporty edge with leather sleeve cuffs or transformed into a zip up jacket.  

DKNY

The inner-goth in me squealed in delight at DKNY'S F/W collection. Dark hues (including that cranberry colour) dominated the collection as did the amalgamation of varying textures. Coat sleeves contrasted in texture with the coat itself, knitted sweaters were paired with PVC corresponding Tibi. Chunky belts cinched in waists and it looks like the return of the puffy parka jacket. I liked the minimalistic approach taken at DKNY. Prints were sparse, a couple of monochromatic leopard prints were woven through the collection. The dresses were divine, ranging from long-sleeved maxi dresses to above-the-knee dresses with sheer decolletage and sleeves - all flowing effortlessly and seamlessly across the figures of the models.

Lela Rose

Aside from their similar colour schemes, Lela Rose's F/W collection and L.A.M.B.'s collection both reminded me of Clueless - just look at those tartan prints and corresponding socks. L.A.M.B. payed homage to the Swingin' Sixties with subtle references to Mod culture, with prim bee-hived hairdos and monochromatic eye makeup and clothing. Houndstooth check and tartan patterns were as attention-grabbing as the colours that represented them.

L.A.M.B.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacob's main line whisked us away from the dark blacks and leathers and thrust us into his colourful, fashionable fantasy inspired by an unlikely candidate, Charles Dickens. As a rookie Dickens enthusiast (currently ploughing through my fifth consecutive attempt at delving into David Copperfield) I instantly recognised the accompanying soundtrack of "Who Will Buy This Wonderful Morning" from Oliver Twist. The celebration of Dickens' 200th year anniversary since his birth takes place this year and Marc has combined both eccentricity and sophistication in order to pay tribute to the literary genius, through the use of luxurious fabrics and materials, outlandish headgear down to the paisley-adorned pinafores. Jacobs referred to his collection as "Oliver Twist-ed!".

"My team and I just started having so much fun, and kind of got carried away as we played with these new silhouettes and started mixing things up in eccentric but modern ways".

Oliver Twist-ed is right, down to those very 19th century, crystal-buckled boots and the theatrical, sloping story book backdrop.

Please, Mr.Jacobs sir, can we have some more?

Jeremy Scott

Oddly enough, I didn't consciously make the decision to conclude this post with the more theatrical, fun collections but it seems things have panned out that way and it's best not to meddle with these naturally formed patterns. Best to end on a bang, eh? Despite not being the most, ahem, wearable of the F/W '12 collections, Jeremy Scott's concept and inspiration behind it all was certainly accessible, especially for today's teenagers who grew up in the 1990's. Scott said he drew his inspiration from "The computer and the way information is disseminated today. The way ideas are proliferating on the internet. How we use icons to show our emotions". This was evident as a transparent rain mac emblazoned with cursors and jumpers displaying all the classic emoticons most would remember from the days of the proboard sites and forums, leaving the nostalgic aftertaste of the hassle of dial-up connections. 

The borderline tackiness exclusive to the 90's saw a comeback thanks to Scott's collection (bindis and facial stickers, jumpsuits in an blinding variegation of colour and cyberpunk hair and makeup reminiscent of Joey Tribbiani's Ichiban - Lipstick for Men commercial) like a nod to Gwen Stefani's No Doubt days. The ultimate 90's mascot and most notorious trouble-making 10 year old since Dennis the Menace, Bart Simpson, made his catwalk debut. Jeremy Scott did the Bartman, proudly plastering it across sweaters and making Bart the print du jour.

"I feel madly in love with Bart", Jeremy explained post show, "And I'm not even the diehard every-episode fan. It's just such a part of pop culture. Bart is a nineties teen icon".

Don't have a cow, man.

*

As I usually prefer the shows closer to home, New York has really set the bar and my excitement for London's take on F/W '12 ceases to rest. I made sure to schedule in advance the shows I'm interested in to avoid the mistake I made of trying to cover EVERY show at NYFW. A bit of trial and error never hurt anyone, right?

What were your NYFW highlights and who are you looking forward to at LFW?

Tavi Gevinson @ New York Fashion Week 2012

Fashion week has arrived once again. New York kicked off the first series of Fall Winter 2012 shows on the 9th of this month, summoning the fashion elite and the creme de la creme of the A-list world. Fashion blogging prodigy and Rookie magazine editor, Tavi Gevinson, was among the many who made the pilgrimage to one of the most imperative dates on the fashion calendar.

It's almost impossible to contain the bitter pangs of jealousy upon discovering that, at just 15 years old, this is Tavi's seventh Fashion Week. New York magazine documents Tavi's packing process before she jetted off for the event in her home in Chicago. The camera offers insights to the enigmatic workings of her wardrobe, before switching back to the young girl kneeling over a slowly-filling suitcase reminiscing of her first experience at Fashion Week in 2009.

"I was really sad to go home and to middle school" she says, folding a lemon-coloured garment before rolling her eyes and adding, with typical teenage apathy, "Which sucked".

Let's fast forward onward a tad to the day of the show in question, shall we? From her more recent blogposts (although I find it silly to include the link as I'm sure anyone who reads this is following her blog) it's clear that Tavi has been sourcing inspiration from the 50's straight through to the 70's. Images and videos from these mid-century decades adorn her posts, including original promos for Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, Mad Men and flight attendants from the 70's. Further back and you'll find her attempts at recreating a beehive, seen above. 

Her sweater is Meadham Kirchhoff, paired with a, very on-trend with the pastels of spring/summer, pleated mint skirt by Miu Miu, black tights with a youthful solitary tear (possibly intentional to tone down the primness of her hair and skirt) and Chloe Sevigny boots. An addition of a novelty button of a child her father gave her from a funeral (what a charming token) warrants her quirky style.

Already, I've jotted down my favourites from the week's shows (Derek Lam, Victoria Beckham and Preen) and shall make sure to convert them into a multi-post by the week's end. Check out (I'm cringing at how American that expression sounds) the video I mentioned earlier to gain a short, adorable insight into Tavi's Fashion Week preparations.

                                    

Valentine's Day Inspiration 2012

The annual buzz concerning Valentine's Day that begins to swam weeks in advance is among us once again. Seriously, we've barely digested Christmas when we're bombarded with images of rosy-cheeked, diapered-bottomed cherubs sparking that coup de foudre into the hearts of their unsuspecting victims, via arrow to the buttocks, and the like. All matters lovey-dovey become a recurring trend in Facebook statuses and a raging sea of red and pink begins to dominates the card section of your local Tesco (those with sensitive eyes beware).

There's no escaping the lurrrrve, whether you embrace the mushiness wholeheartedly or if (like me, and a vast majority of the population) you're a loyal member of the Lonely Hearts Club Band, or checking into the Heartbreak Hotel for the umpteenth year in a row. This is why I channeled my personal inspiration for Valentine's Day into a humble Polyvore set - my first attempt at a "mood board", if you will.

As much as I try to abstain from plaguing my posts with unnecessary and often long-winded drivel, I do feel the need to at least give a brief reference to each item of inspiration.

{Left to right}

• Venus and Child, Jean Honore-Fragonard - a painting I was most fortunate to discover upon a trip with my art class to the National Gallery of Ireland. Cupid, being the god of desire, affection and erotic love (what a gem of a title to have on your CV), embodies the whole element of Valentine's Day in his ethos. His job description is to make people fall in love. Also, as you all know, I have a fetish for Renaissance art.
• The infamous "I Choo Choo Choose You" card Lisa pity-presents to Ralph, in the I Love Lisa episode of The Simpsons - later to be succeeded by the Let's Bee Friends card.
• Heart Candies. My favourite confectionary concoction as a child. Also great for those days when you realise nobody loves you or are simply in dire need of a pick-me-up.
•  Vivienne Westwood "Melissa" shoes - do I even need an explanation?
• The Lady Marmalade video, starring Mia, Pink, Lil Kim and Christina Aguilera. Need I say more than "Voulez vous coucher avec moi, ce soir?"
• Lana Del Ray's photoshoot for the March issue of Vogue UK. The sultry New-Yorker graced the pages of Vogue for a very fitting, pin-up affair. Frothy textures and Valentine's Day-esque colours made up the bones of the shoot, while a sign off of "Lots of love, Lana Del Ray xxx" in her playfully curvy print doesn't fail to remind you of something you'd see on any given month of a calendar hanging in a garage somewhere in America. 
• Dress from Valentino's SS 2012 collection. It's red and lacy. Enough said.
• Dusting off the DeLorean here, with a gem from Christopher Kane's SS 2010 collection. Remember the to-die-for gingham patterns that stormed the runway - and eventually the rest of the world (Daisy Lowe owned it). Prim, pink and light enough for picnics in the country side with a significant other.
• Johnny Depp and Winona Ryder. Now, Monsieur Depp has been with a string of beautiful women in his time (Jennifer Gray, La Moss, and of course Vanessa Paradis) but these two were the most adorable. WINONA FOREVER!
• Meadham Kirchhoff's Heart Pinafore. In fact, the whole SS 2012 collection from the designer duo would be appropriate but for the sake of limited space, and keeping to the topic, I included just the one. 
• Clare Danes and Leonard DiCaprio in Romeo + Juliet. The original tearjerker and expectation-crusher. "Did my heart love til now? Forswear its sight. For I never saw true beauty til this night".
• Clutch bag by Lulu Guinness.

If you have somehow managed to get through all that, I applaud you. A lovely Valentine's Day to you all - "merry" and "happy" don't quite seem to fit. Watch out for any of those flying arrows...  

Mulberry Spring Summer 2012 Campaign

What do you associate with spring and summer? What images does your mind conjure up, even if somewhat generic. Is it the re-emergence of pastels following their long winter hibernation stuffed at the back of our closets that never cease to lose their appeal and charm notwithstanding their predictability? Is it the sound of waves thundering against the shore filling your eardrums, the wispy, fine upper layer of sand spilling over the gaps between your toes while the heat of the sun gently toasts the back of your legs? Or is it simply being confined indoors, watching in utter dismay, as the annual monsoon of summer, overly-familiar to Ireland and the UK, pummels to the ground?

Despite this Siberian weather we've been experiencing these past few days, we are now officially inaugurating the spring/summer 2012 season.

SS 2012 campaigns and lookbooks are cropping up all over the place like the blossoming buds of baby daffodils, poking their canary petals out of their green cocoons. The homegrown image of a commonplace English (and Irish) summer's day spent at the seaside indulging in pierside cuisine, flaked out in those deckchairs passed down by your grandparents, is captured in Mulberry's season shoot starring Lindsey Wixon and Frida Gustavsson shot by Tim Walker.

The Amazonian height of the models is overshadowed by the life size monuments of beach delicacies (99 cones in the process of melting under the summer sun, shattered shards of stick-of-rock candy and the very informal container for a meal of fish and chips - newspaper) almost tower over the models. The apt location of Brighton Pier, famous for it's connotations of seaside holidays and it's equally as famous fairground delight boardwalk, provides the backdrop for the shoot.

The clothes themselves are the epitome of the warmer months; not a harsh, bold berry tone in sight! Bright, feminine, fresh was the key with this collection, light textures and and short hemlines to soak up the warmth and sunshine but the precaution of lightweight coats and jackets because you never know when the rain will decide to spew itself all over your picnic.

The colour scheming is so very appropriate - just look at those sunny yellow mackintoshes, with complenting platform sandals and Holiday Bayswater handbags. Is it just me or does the colour palette remind you of ice lollies and ice creams? The soft chocolate browns that reoccur throughout. Especially the striped colour block dress worn by both models - the similarly patterned and coloured ice lollies that you begged your mother to buy you as a child (e.g. Twister and Loop the Loop) immediately sprang to mind. And if you have no clue what I'm referring to, click here for an insight.

During the process of writing this post, I paused often to dwell on the occasional instillation of nostalgia that a mere look at the images gave me; sand in your sandwiches, collecting bucketfuls of pearlescent shells only to be distraught when told you would return home without them as they would, and I'm paraphrasing here, "stink up the car" and lounging for hours on a sandy landscape submersed in a book, pausing every now and again to listen to the buzz of people doing the exact same thing as you or the jingle of the passing ice cream van followed by hoards of people or the gulls squawking overhead.

The power of advertising, eh?