Tavi Gevinson @ New York Fashion Week 2012

Fashion week has arrived once again. New York kicked off the first series of Fall Winter 2012 shows on the 9th of this month, summoning the fashion elite and the creme de la creme of the A-list world. Fashion blogging prodigy and Rookie magazine editor, Tavi Gevinson, was among the many who made the pilgrimage to one of the most imperative dates on the fashion calendar.

It's almost impossible to contain the bitter pangs of jealousy upon discovering that, at just 15 years old, this is Tavi's seventh Fashion Week. New York magazine documents Tavi's packing process before she jetted off for the event in her home in Chicago. The camera offers insights to the enigmatic workings of her wardrobe, before switching back to the young girl kneeling over a slowly-filling suitcase reminiscing of her first experience at Fashion Week in 2009.

"I was really sad to go home and to middle school" she says, folding a lemon-coloured garment before rolling her eyes and adding, with typical teenage apathy, "Which sucked".

Let's fast forward onward a tad to the day of the show in question, shall we? From her more recent blogposts (although I find it silly to include the link as I'm sure anyone who reads this is following her blog) it's clear that Tavi has been sourcing inspiration from the 50's straight through to the 70's. Images and videos from these mid-century decades adorn her posts, including original promos for Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, Mad Men and flight attendants from the 70's. Further back and you'll find her attempts at recreating a beehive, seen above. 

Her sweater is Meadham Kirchhoff, paired with a, very on-trend with the pastels of spring/summer, pleated mint skirt by Miu Miu, black tights with a youthful solitary tear (possibly intentional to tone down the primness of her hair and skirt) and Chloe Sevigny boots. An addition of a novelty button of a child her father gave her from a funeral (what a charming token) warrants her quirky style.

Already, I've jotted down my favourites from the week's shows (Derek Lam, Victoria Beckham and Preen) and shall make sure to convert them into a multi-post by the week's end. Check out (I'm cringing at how American that expression sounds) the video I mentioned earlier to gain a short, adorable insight into Tavi's Fashion Week preparations.

                                    

Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier's Homage to Amy Winehouse

 

To be quite frank, I never thought I'd see the day where "Amy Winehouse" and "haute couture" would share the same sentence, but the late Back to Black singer was the clear inspiration for Gaultier's Spring Summer 2012 collection in Camden this week.

The collection collaborated and captured Amy's style signatures and the catwalk was awash with beehived bouffants, winged eyeliner, above-lip beauty spots and the inclusion of several models indulging in a cigarette mid-strut. 

Retro silhouettes and attributes, such as cinched waists, elongating pencil skirts and flaring rockabilly dresses were prominent, as were typical Winehouse staples: an array of tropical colours of which she was so fond, peek-a-boo bras, pencil skirts, hooped earrings and even a Fred Perry-esque dress all tailored to accommodate the singer's style flirtations with a manifold of past generations and urban thrift-chic.

Gaultier's own signature was brandished among the collection, merging his infamous corsets via luxurious silk, hourglasses dresses and long, billowing trench coats as a seal of self designation. 

The tradition of ending a couture show with a bride was altered, and allowed each model to be transformed into a bride; donning black veils, as the barber quartet in the background chorused Winehouse's hit "Rehab" evoking the spectator's emotions.

However, the collection has resulted in a strict division in opinions between those close to Winehouse and celebrity peers. Front row onlookers, Beth Ditto and burlesque icon Dita von Teese, were collectively moved by the show while Mitch, Amy's father, has abelled the usage of Amy's image which he feels "glamorises some of the more upsetting times of her life" and is in "bad taste". Kelly Osborne, a close friend to Winehouse, took to Twitter to voice her opposition to the collection, declaring Gaultier as "lucratively selfish and distasteful".

Despite this, the clothing has shown a much more wearable side to haute couture - a turquoise sequined pencil skirt isn't too extravagantly out of the blue, now is it? And due to it's controversy and mixed opinions, has effectuated a talking point - is that not the overall aim of a designer? To have their creations on the lips of the world, whether it be in a negative or positive light.

What do you think? Do you feel "No, no, no!" (I couldn't resist) that Gaultier gone too far and "stolen" Amy's look for his own personal gain? Or do you feel his tribute was saturated with nothing but affection, celebrating the life of a musical and style icon?

Spring/Summer 2011 Trends

Think "spring" and your mind will instantly conjure up images of fresh, blooming flowers and new life. The days are getting longer and brighter - much like the ankle skirts at Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week.

These almost almost ~clichéd~ thoughts can be reflected from the catwalks of many designers this season. 

The two main trends you'll see, will inevitably be brights and botanicals. After the cold, dark, dreary winter months, bright colours and suitable fresh floral patterns emerge from their hibernation, to once again take their place in our wardrobes as season staples.

At Milan Fashion Week, Jil Sander showcased the neon brights trend. Raf Simmons presented a feast for the eyes - while not going overboard. On display, were an array of playfully clashing colours in vibrant hues but keeping that trademark minimalistic touch of former designer, Jil Sander, herself. 

My favourite look (and the easiest to replocate for theose who want to stand out but are perhaps, a little too retiring) is the simple, yet effective, combination of the plain white tshirt and an ankle length, acid-coloured skirt - which are everywhere right now. All the girls were given powerful, pink pouts. The clothes and lips were so very attention-grabbing that neutral makeup was the way to go. 

Neons are simply to wear, considering you don't go overboard and keep things relatively low key. As the saying goes "a little goes a long way". You don't want to end up looking like a crossbred between a clown and a glowstick.

Jil Sander

 On the completely other end of the scale, we have the pretty, feminine florals that return time and time again at this time of the year, which I, personally, never tire of. Whether you want romantic florals with an edge, like Erdem at London Fashion Week -who is fast becoming a favourite of mine- or the kookier leafy prints, as seen from House of Holland, florals are easy to work into any wardrobe but there is a downside. Florals can be as dull as watching paint dry - going with more unique patterns, prints and shades can save you from looking like your mother's withering bouquet, neglected in the corner.

Erdem

 

House of Holland